6/26 発寒の家Ⅲ

 １階床の解体に到達した「発寒の家Ⅲ」今までで充分に伝わったと思いますが・・これからの家づくりを本気で新築から性能向上改修にシフトさせようとするなら・・大工さんの養成こそ急務です。それもプレカットやパネルの組み立てが得意な大工さんじゃあなくて昔の仕事が分かる人。現場の工夫で自由自在に頭を使った修理ができる人がいないと上手く行かない。昔の建物はどんなに丁寧に組んであっても経年で、今のプレカット以上の狂いを生じています。だから現場での作業軽減のためにプレカットで交換予定の梁柱の加工は難しい。未加工の材を現場に入れて、又は現場で写してきた型紙やバカ棒を元に土場で手加工して現場に持ち込まなくちゃ無理。部品は少し余裕を持って作って現場で鋸とノミですり合わせて建て込む・・分かりますよね？　手鋸が引けて、ノミが使える大工さん・・そうした技は普段の手刻みでしか身に付かないんです。つまり新たな改修社会に一番必要なのは古い仕事のできる大工さん。弟子の頃は手刻みから憶えて、プレカットにツーバイ、パネルと・・要は今までの木造住宅の変遷と共に歩んできた大工さんです。そもそも改修なんてどんな構造の家が来るかわからない。ヨサワのオリジナルパネルかもしれんし、スゲー田ハウスの206、幸運にも誰でも知ってる在来かもしれない。だからプレカットなんて邪道だ～とか、ツーバイなんて子供の積み木だ～とか・・のたまう能書き大工さんは正直困ります/笑・・お客さんの仕事、評論してる暇があったらどうやって直せるか必死に考えようねって・・それから設計者の教育と意識改革も大切・・自分も経験ありますけど・・そもそも学校では新築の計画や図面しか習わない。世の中はとっくに新築なんて減ってるのに教育は逆。材料もそう・・直す＆後付けツー視点で使える金物や工具が欲しいです。最後は技術標準とそれを審査する人達。特に窓口で改修の審査をする建築主事さんは今後、現場研修を義務付けないとまともな審査なんてできない。大変な時代になったもんだと思う。

``Cold House III'' where the first floor has been demolished I think I've explained it enough so far, but if you are seriously trying to shift your future house building from new construction to performance improvement renovation... Carpenter's... Training is an urgent need. And it's not a carpenter who is good at pre-cutting and assembling panels, but someone who understands old work. Things will not go well unless there is someone who can use their brains freely to make repairs on-site. No matter how carefully old buildings were assembled, over time they have become more distorted than today's pre-cut structures. Therefore, it is difficult to process the beams and pillars that are scheduled to be replaced by pre-cutting to reduce work on site.　It is impossible to do this without bringing unprocessed materials to the site, or hand-processing them at the site based on the patterns and baka sticks copied at the site. The parts are made with a little extra margin and then assembled on site by sawing and chiseling them together...you get the point, right? A carpenter who can use a handsaw and a chisel...those skills can only be learned through regular hand carving. In other words, what the new renovation society needs most are carpenters who can do old-fashioned work. When he was an apprentice, he learned how to carve by hand, then to pre-cutting, two-by-two, and panels...in short, he is a carpenter who has followed the evolution of wooden houses up until now. In the first place, I don't know what kind of structure the house will be renovated. It might be Yosawa's original panel, or it might be Sugeta House's 206, or it might be a native one that everyone is lucky enough to know.　That's why pre-cutting is evil, and two-by-two is just children's building blocks... I'm honestly in trouble for the carpenter who keeps complaining about it. Lol... If I have time to criticize the customer's work, I'll think hard about how I can fix it. Also, it's important to educate and change the mindset of designers...I have experienced this myself...In school, they only learn plans and drawings for new construction. The number of new buildings in the world has been decreasing for a long time, but the opposite is true for education. The same goes for materials...I want hardware and tools that can be used for repair and retrofitting. Lastly, there are technical standards and the people who review them. In particular, building officials who inspect renovations at counters will no longer be able to conduct proper inspections unless they are required to undergo on-site training. I think these are difficult times.

なんと１階床も二階床と同じように梁を飛ばして納めている。せめて土台の天端と梁の天端を揃えて上に根太を敷いたんならいいけど・・ここでも得意の兜掛け・・床梁の天端は土台天端＋75ｍｍ・・困った。単純に下げると梁のＯＨが厳しくなって梁間に渡れない。要は床下点検が出来なくなっちゃう。

Surprisingly, just like the second floor, the first floor floor is built with skipped beams. It would be nice if I could at least line up the top of the foundation and the top of the beam and lay a joist on top...I'm also good at hanging helmets here...the top of the floor beam is the top of the base + 75mm...I was in trouble. If you simply lower it, the OH of the beam will become severe and you will not be able to cross between the beams. In short, you won't be able to inspect under the floor.

こちらが土台に兜掛けされた床梁・・明日、棟梁に意見を聞こう。床下の防湿もしっかりやらんといけませんしね・・・

This is the floor beam with a helmet on the foundation...I'll ask the master carpenter's opinion tomorrow. We also have to do a good job of preventing moisture under the floor...

むかしの人は小さかったんで・・じゃあなくて人通口作るのはいいけど・・幅が370ｍｍつーのはぎりぎりです。

In the past, people were small, so it would be nice to have an entrance for people to pass through, but the width of 370mm is just about the limit.

6/12～13 発寒の家Ⅲ

 

6/12～13かけて梁の補強を行いました。古い梁は捻じれているので・・・

We reinforced the beams from June 12th to 13th. The old beams are twisted...

斜線部分を削って下の新しい梁と面を合わせます。

Cut the shaded area to match the new beam below.

大工さんがノミで削ってくれました。

The carpenter cut it out with a chisel.

こちらは大梁の補強。当時は今に比べて梁も細くてあまり強いとは言えません。そこで古い梁の上下に新たに補強の梁を入れてさらに両側から合板でガッチリ挟みます。

This is reinforcement of the girder. At that time, the beams were thinner and not very strong compared to now. Therefore, we added new reinforcing beams above and below the old beams and firmly sandwiched them with plywood from both sides.

合板がしっかり接着できるように梁の腹に構造用のボンドを塗ります。

Apply structural glue to the sides of the beams so that the plywood will adhere firmly.

長い合板を貼って10ｃｍの釘間隔で合板をしっかり留め付けます。

Paste a long piece of plywood and securely fasten the plywood with nails spaced 10cm apart.

FIVE NEW OLD　いいですよね～

FIVE NEW OLD That’s good, isn’t it?

6/6 発寒の家Ⅲ

 

6/6の「発寒の家Ⅲ」先週、雨に当たらずに主屋の防水が終わり、今週は下屋の外張り断熱に取り掛かっています。屋根にはミラフォームラムダを200ｍｍ、壁にはネオマフォームを120ｍｍ外張りします。胴差に座掘りなしで取り付けられていた羽子板ボルトはＯＳＢを開口して逃がしました。このボルトの上にネオマ120ｍｍで付加断熱しますからボルト自体はもう冷えません。付加断熱って便利ですよね～。

6/6 "Cold House III" Last week, we finished waterproofing the main house without it raining, and this week we are working on insulating the outer lining of the lower house. The roof will be covered with 200mm of Mirafoam Lambda, and the walls will be covered with 120mm of Neomafoam. The battledore bolt, which was installed without drilling into the fuselage, was removed by opening the OSB. We will add 120mm of neoma on top of this bolt to insulate it, so the bolt itself will no longer get cold. Additional insulation is convenient.

OSBを開口して逃がした羽子板ボルト

Battledore bolt released by opening OSB

１層目と２層目の交点部分

Intersection of 1st and 2nd layer

こんな風に木材の熱橋が最小になるように１層目と２層目を組み合わせます。

Combine the first and second layers so that the thermal bridge between the wood is minimized like this.

二層目を貼り込むＵ棟梁

U ridge beam for pasting the second layer

主屋の防水は既に完璧です。

The main building is already completely waterproof.

6/3 発寒の家Ⅲ

6/3の「発寒の家Ⅲ」です。昼から雨交じりの天気へ。でも前日の準備がバッチリだったので朝からイーアステックさんの職人さん二人で12坪の主屋は昼までに防水完了！先輩建築家の小室雅伸さんから教えていただいた０勾配のシート防水で、今や陸屋根の完成度は一般的な勾配屋根と遜色ないものになっています。無落雪という地域の要求を素直に満たす形や従来の板金防水のM字型屋根と異なり束と母屋を省略できる点も助かります。

This is ``Hatsu no Ie III'' on 6/3. The weather turned to rain from noon. However, the preparations the day before were perfect, so two EASTEC craftsmen started in the morning and completed waterproofing the 12 tsubo main house by noon! Thanks to the zero slope sheet waterproofing that I learned from my senior architect, Masanobu Komuro, the level of perfection of flat roofs is now on par with regular sloped roofs. The shape easily meets the local requirements of no snowfall, and unlike the conventional M-shaped roof made of sheet metal waterproofing, the ability to omit the bundles and purlins is also helpful.

工業用のドライヤーにて溶接して行きます。

Welding will be done using an industrial dryer.

板金の屋根に比べてとにかくスピードが速いシート防水。特に水勾配を持たない陸屋根の場合、施工の早さはアドバンテージになります。

Sheet waterproofing is faster than sheet metal roofing. Especially for flat roofs that do not have a water slope, the speed of construction is an advantage.

気温が下がると材料の軟化と乾燥のためにガスバーナーで炙りながら施工を行います。

When the temperature drops, we heat the material using a gas burner to soften and dry the material during construction.

 

6/2 発寒の家Ⅲ

 明日、屋根の防水を行う「発寒の家Ⅲ」の現場の様子です。上から順に通気垂木（45×105/通気加工済）＋防風透湿シート＋ボード状断熱材200ｍｍ（ＧＷ340ｍｍ相当）＋防湿シート＋厚物合板＋梁の順の断熱構成です。北側と西側で付加断熱（壁）の厚みを変えて隣地間距離を確保するために新築のように東西南北の軒の出は同じになりません。壁の厚みが北、西と南、東で異なるので矩計図もそれぞれ必要になります。性能向上改修ならではです。

Tomorrow, we will be waterproofing the roof of the ``Hatsuya House III'' site. From top to bottom, the insulation configuration is: ventilation rafters (45 x 105/ventilated) + windproof and breathable sheet + board-like insulation material 200mm (equivalent to GW 340mm) + moisture-proof sheet + thick plywood + beam. The thickness of the additional insulation (walls) is changed on the north and west sides to ensure distance between adjacent properties, so the eaves on the east, west, north and south will not be the same as in a new building. Since the thickness of the wall is different in the north, west, south, and east, a rectangular plan is also required for each. This is a performance improvement modification.

この上から厚物合板を留め付けます。

Fasten the thick plywood over this.

通気加工済みの屋根の通気垂木です。

Ventilated roof rafters.

こんな感じに通気の欠き込みを入れてＸ、Ｙ方向に自由に空気が流れるようにします。

Create ventilation holes like this to allow air to flow freely in the X and Y directions.

右手の隣地側は薄い付加断熱、左側は厚い付加断熱。壁の厚みは変わっても性能は同じになるように調整します。

The adjacent property on the right has thin additional insulation, and the left side has thick additional insulation. Adjust so that the performance remains the same even if the wall thickness changes.

雨が気になるので・・本当は下屋も同時に明日、防水してしまいたいところですが・・壁の面材を桁の腹に打ちたいので、割り切って主屋の屋根先行で行きます。

I'm worried about the rain, so I'd like to waterproof the lower house tomorrow at the same time, but I want to attach the wall paneling to the girder, so I'm going to go ahead and do the roof of the main house first.