6/26 発寒の家Ⅲ

 １階床の解体に到達した「発寒の家Ⅲ」今までで充分に伝わったと思いますが・・これからの家づくりを本気で新築から性能向上改修にシフトさせようとするなら・・大工さんの養成こそ急務です。それもプレカットやパネルの組み立てが得意な大工さんじゃあなくて昔の仕事が分かる人。現場の工夫で自由自在に頭を使った修理ができる人がいないと上手く行かない。昔の建物はどんなに丁寧に組んであっても経年で、今のプレカット以上の狂いを生じています。だから現場での作業軽減のためにプレカットで交換予定の梁柱の加工は難しい。未加工の材を現場に入れて、又は現場で写してきた型紙やバカ棒を元に土場で手加工して現場に持ち込まなくちゃ無理。部品は少し余裕を持って作って現場で鋸とノミですり合わせて建て込む・・分かりますよね？　手鋸が引けて、ノミが使える大工さん・・そうした技は普段の手刻みでしか身に付かないんです。つまり新たな改修社会に一番必要なのは古い仕事のできる大工さん。弟子の頃は手刻みから憶えて、プレカットにツーバイ、パネルと・・要は今までの木造住宅の変遷と共に歩んできた大工さんです。そもそも改修なんてどんな構造の家が来るかわからない。ヨサワのオリジナルパネルかもしれんし、スゲー田ハウスの206、幸運にも誰でも知ってる在来かもしれない。だからプレカットなんて邪道だ～とか、ツーバイなんて子供の積み木だ～とか・・のたまう能書き大工さんは正直困ります/笑・・お客さんの仕事、評論してる暇があったらどうやって直せるか必死に考えようねって・・それから設計者の教育と意識改革も大切・・自分も経験ありますけど・・そもそも学校では新築の計画や図面しか習わない。世の中はとっくに新築なんて減ってるのに教育は逆。材料もそう・・直す＆後付けツー視点で使える金物や工具が欲しいです。最後は技術標準とそれを審査する人達。特に窓口で改修の審査をする建築主事さんは今後、現場研修を義務付けないとまともな審査なんてできない。大変な時代になったもんだと思う。

``Cold House III'' where the first floor has been demolished I think I've explained it enough so far, but if you are seriously trying to shift your future house building from new construction to performance improvement renovation... Carpenter's... Training is an urgent need. And it's not a carpenter who is good at pre-cutting and assembling panels, but someone who understands old work. Things will not go well unless there is someone who can use their brains freely to make repairs on-site. No matter how carefully old buildings were assembled, over time they have become more distorted than today's pre-cut structures. Therefore, it is difficult to process the beams and pillars that are scheduled to be replaced by pre-cutting to reduce work on site.　It is impossible to do this without bringing unprocessed materials to the site, or hand-processing them at the site based on the patterns and baka sticks copied at the site. The parts are made with a little extra margin and then assembled on site by sawing and chiseling them together...you get the point, right? A carpenter who can use a handsaw and a chisel...those skills can only be learned through regular hand carving. In other words, what the new renovation society needs most are carpenters who can do old-fashioned work. When he was an apprentice, he learned how to carve by hand, then to pre-cutting, two-by-two, and panels...in short, he is a carpenter who has followed the evolution of wooden houses up until now. In the first place, I don't know what kind of structure the house will be renovated. It might be Yosawa's original panel, or it might be Sugeta House's 206, or it might be a native one that everyone is lucky enough to know.　That's why pre-cutting is evil, and two-by-two is just children's building blocks... I'm honestly in trouble for the carpenter who keeps complaining about it. Lol... If I have time to criticize the customer's work, I'll think hard about how I can fix it. Also, it's important to educate and change the mindset of designers...I have experienced this myself...In school, they only learn plans and drawings for new construction. The number of new buildings in the world has been decreasing for a long time, but the opposite is true for education. The same goes for materials...I want hardware and tools that can be used for repair and retrofitting. Lastly, there are technical standards and the people who review them. In particular, building officials who inspect renovations at counters will no longer be able to conduct proper inspections unless they are required to undergo on-site training. I think these are difficult times.

なんと１階床も二階床と同じように梁を飛ばして納めている。せめて土台の天端と梁の天端を揃えて上に根太を敷いたんならいいけど・・ここでも得意の兜掛け・・床梁の天端は土台天端＋75ｍｍ・・困った。単純に下げると梁のＯＨが厳しくなって梁間に渡れない。要は床下点検が出来なくなっちゃう。

Surprisingly, just like the second floor, the first floor floor is built with skipped beams. It would be nice if I could at least line up the top of the foundation and the top of the beam and lay a joist on top...I'm also good at hanging helmets here...the top of the floor beam is the top of the base + 75mm...I was in trouble. If you simply lower it, the OH of the beam will become severe and you will not be able to cross between the beams. In short, you won't be able to inspect under the floor.

こちらが土台に兜掛けされた床梁・・明日、棟梁に意見を聞こう。床下の防湿もしっかりやらんといけませんしね・・・

This is the floor beam with a helmet on the foundation...I'll ask the master carpenter's opinion tomorrow. We also have to do a good job of preventing moisture under the floor...

むかしの人は小さかったんで・・じゃあなくて人通口作るのはいいけど・・幅が370ｍｍつーのはぎりぎりです。

In the past, people were small, so it would be nice to have an entrance for people to pass through, but the width of 370mm is just about the limit.

6/12～13 発寒の家Ⅲ

 

6/12～13かけて梁の補強を行いました。古い梁は捻じれているので・・・

We reinforced the beams from June 12th to 13th. The old beams are twisted...

斜線部分を削って下の新しい梁と面を合わせます。

Cut the shaded area to match the new beam below.

大工さんがノミで削ってくれました。

The carpenter cut it out with a chisel.

こちらは大梁の補強。当時は今に比べて梁も細くてあまり強いとは言えません。そこで古い梁の上下に新たに補強の梁を入れてさらに両側から合板でガッチリ挟みます。

This is reinforcement of the girder. At that time, the beams were thinner and not very strong compared to now. Therefore, we added new reinforcing beams above and below the old beams and firmly sandwiched them with plywood from both sides.

合板がしっかり接着できるように梁の腹に構造用のボンドを塗ります。

Apply structural glue to the sides of the beams so that the plywood will adhere firmly.

長い合板を貼って10ｃｍの釘間隔で合板をしっかり留め付けます。

Paste a long piece of plywood and securely fasten the plywood with nails spaced 10cm apart.

FIVE NEW OLD　いいですよね～

FIVE NEW OLD That’s good, isn’t it?

6/6 発寒の家Ⅲ

 

6/6の「発寒の家Ⅲ」先週、雨に当たらずに主屋の防水が終わり、今週は下屋の外張り断熱に取り掛かっています。屋根にはミラフォームラムダを200ｍｍ、壁にはネオマフォームを120ｍｍ外張りします。胴差に座掘りなしで取り付けられていた羽子板ボルトはＯＳＢを開口して逃がしました。このボルトの上にネオマ120ｍｍで付加断熱しますからボルト自体はもう冷えません。付加断熱って便利ですよね～。

6/6 "Cold House III" Last week, we finished waterproofing the main house without it raining, and this week we are working on insulating the outer lining of the lower house. The roof will be covered with 200mm of Mirafoam Lambda, and the walls will be covered with 120mm of Neomafoam. The battledore bolt, which was installed without drilling into the fuselage, was removed by opening the OSB. We will add 120mm of neoma on top of this bolt to insulate it, so the bolt itself will no longer get cold. Additional insulation is convenient.

OSBを開口して逃がした羽子板ボルト

Battledore bolt released by opening OSB

１層目と２層目の交点部分

Intersection of 1st and 2nd layer

こんな風に木材の熱橋が最小になるように１層目と２層目を組み合わせます。

Combine the first and second layers so that the thermal bridge between the wood is minimized like this.

二層目を貼り込むＵ棟梁

U ridge beam for pasting the second layer

主屋の防水は既に完璧です。

The main building is already completely waterproof.

6/3 発寒の家Ⅲ

6/3の「発寒の家Ⅲ」です。昼から雨交じりの天気へ。でも前日の準備がバッチリだったので朝からイーアステックさんの職人さん二人で12坪の主屋は昼までに防水完了！先輩建築家の小室雅伸さんから教えていただいた０勾配のシート防水で、今や陸屋根の完成度は一般的な勾配屋根と遜色ないものになっています。無落雪という地域の要求を素直に満たす形や従来の板金防水のM字型屋根と異なり束と母屋を省略できる点も助かります。

This is ``Hatsu no Ie III'' on 6/3. The weather turned to rain from noon. However, the preparations the day before were perfect, so two EASTEC craftsmen started in the morning and completed waterproofing the 12 tsubo main house by noon! Thanks to the zero slope sheet waterproofing that I learned from my senior architect, Masanobu Komuro, the level of perfection of flat roofs is now on par with regular sloped roofs. The shape easily meets the local requirements of no snowfall, and unlike the conventional M-shaped roof made of sheet metal waterproofing, the ability to omit the bundles and purlins is also helpful.

工業用のドライヤーにて溶接して行きます。

Welding will be done using an industrial dryer.

板金の屋根に比べてとにかくスピードが速いシート防水。特に水勾配を持たない陸屋根の場合、施工の早さはアドバンテージになります。

Sheet waterproofing is faster than sheet metal roofing. Especially for flat roofs that do not have a water slope, the speed of construction is an advantage.

気温が下がると材料の軟化と乾燥のためにガスバーナーで炙りながら施工を行います。

When the temperature drops, we heat the material using a gas burner to soften and dry the material during construction.

 

6/2 発寒の家Ⅲ

 明日、屋根の防水を行う「発寒の家Ⅲ」の現場の様子です。上から順に通気垂木（45×105/通気加工済）＋防風透湿シート＋ボード状断熱材200ｍｍ（ＧＷ340ｍｍ相当）＋防湿シート＋厚物合板＋梁の順の断熱構成です。北側と西側で付加断熱（壁）の厚みを変えて隣地間距離を確保するために新築のように東西南北の軒の出は同じになりません。壁の厚みが北、西と南、東で異なるので矩計図もそれぞれ必要になります。性能向上改修ならではです。

Tomorrow, we will be waterproofing the roof of the ``Hatsuya House III'' site. From top to bottom, the insulation configuration is: ventilation rafters (45 x 105/ventilated) + windproof and breathable sheet + board-like insulation material 200mm (equivalent to GW 340mm) + moisture-proof sheet + thick plywood + beam. The thickness of the additional insulation (walls) is changed on the north and west sides to ensure distance between adjacent properties, so the eaves on the east, west, north and south will not be the same as in a new building. Since the thickness of the wall is different in the north, west, south, and east, a rectangular plan is also required for each. This is a performance improvement modification.

この上から厚物合板を留め付けます。

Fasten the thick plywood over this.

通気加工済みの屋根の通気垂木です。

Ventilated roof rafters.

こんな感じに通気の欠き込みを入れてＸ、Ｙ方向に自由に空気が流れるようにします。

Create ventilation holes like this to allow air to flow freely in the X and Y directions.

右手の隣地側は薄い付加断熱、左側は厚い付加断熱。壁の厚みは変わっても性能は同じになるように調整します。

The adjacent property on the right has thin additional insulation, and the left side has thick additional insulation. Adjust so that the performance remains the same even if the wall thickness changes.

雨が気になるので・・本当は下屋も同時に明日、防水してしまいたいところですが・・壁の面材を桁の腹に打ちたいので、割り切って主屋の屋根先行で行きます。

I'm worried about the rain, so I'd like to waterproof the lower house tomorrow at the same time, but I want to attach the wall paneling to the girder, so I'm going to go ahead and do the roof of the main house first.

5/31 発寒の家Ⅲ

 

捻じれていた二階の梁（105×270L:3640）を素早く架け替え、根太受けと梁成補強のために45×105を両側からサンドイッチした「発寒の家Ⅲ」です。屋根断熱は最近お気に入りのミラフォームΛ・・EPSでありながらフェノールフォームに迫る性能とコストパフォーマンスが魅力で最近よく使います。基礎断熱に土と接して使える汎用性の高さも魅力。屋根にはこのラムダを200ｍｍ（約ＧＷ340ｍｍ相当）を使います。ちなみに屋根は構造体の外側で断熱する外張り断熱。従いまして今見えている梁等の構造材は全て室内側に存在することになります。こうすることで、いつでも点検が容易になります。

The second floor beam (105 x 270L: 3640) which had been twisted was quickly replaced, and 45 x 105 was sandwiched from both sides to support the joists and strengthen the beam. My recent favorite for roof insulation is Mirafoam Λ...I've been using EPS a lot lately because it has performance and cost performance that rivals phenol foam. It is also attractive for its versatility, as it can be used in contact with soil for basic insulation. For the roof, use this lambda of 200mm (equivalent to approximately GW340mm). By the way, the roof is externally insulated, which is insulated on the outside of the structure. Therefore, all the structural materials such as beams that are visible now are on the indoor side. This makes inspection easier at any time.

梁を架け替え根太受けと補強を兼ねて両側より45×105で挟みました。

The beam was replaced and sandwiched between 45 x 105 pieces from both sides to support the joists and reinforce it.

梁と柱の接合は全て羽子板ボルトやパネリードＸを用いて補強します。

All joints between beams and columns are reinforced using battledore bolts and panel lead X.

コストパフォーマンスとどこにでも使い易い性格が気に入って最近よく使うミラフォームラムダ。写真は100ｍｍ厚です。

I've been using Miraform Lambda a lot lately because I like its cost performance and ease of use anywhere. The photo is 100mm thick.

当時の羽子板ボルト（Z金物）今にして思えばガタモ大きいですし、ボルトもスプリングワッシャを使っていなかったりで、手で回ります。

In retrospect, the battledore bolts (Z hardware) of those days were quite large, and the bolts did not use spring washers, so they had to be turned by hand.

やっと手に入るようになった構造用パネルOSB9ｍｍ（3×10版）

Structural panel OSB9mm (3×10 version) finally available

屋根には１層目の断熱材を敷き詰めて、ブルーシートを掛けて雨養生。

The first layer of insulation was laid on the roof, and a blue sheet was placed over it to protect it from rain.

なぜ・・和室の長押や廻り縁はこんな風に大きく欠くんでしょう・・柱断面が乏しいものはこの際思い切って交換します。

Why are the long edges and edges of the Japanese-style room so badly damaged? I will take the plunge and replace the pillars with poor cross-sections at this time.

5/30 発寒の家Ⅲ

 屋根から取り掛かった「発寒の家Ⅲ」屋根は構造体の外側に外張り断熱。なので防湿シートは梁の外気側。壁は充填を主体に付加断熱を外張りするので防湿シートは柱の室内側。切り替え部分のシートの仕込みが完了。

雨の多い季節を見越して屋根断熱はGWではなくてボード状断熱材を選択しました。丁寧に小屋梁のレベルを取り直し大垂木下には矢を打って天端のレベルはキッチリ。今後２階梁の交換やクリープの矯正なんかもあるので現場にはジャッキを用意。補強に使う羽子板ボルトはカナイならメルト、カネシンならレスビー。

好みなんです/笑

Starting with the roof, the roof of ``Cold House III'' is insulated on the outside of the structure. Therefore, the moisture-proof sheet is on the outside air side of the beam. The walls are mainly filled with additional insulation, so the moisture-proof sheet is on the indoor side of the pillars. Preparation of the sheet for the switching part is complete.

In anticipation of the rainy season, we chose board-type insulation material for the roof insulation rather than Golden Ware. We carefully re-leveled the roof beams and shot arrows under the large rafters to ensure the top level was perfect. In the future, we will need to replace the second floor beam and correct creep, so we have a jack on site. The battledore bolts used for reinforcement are Melt for Kanai and Lesby for Kaneshin.

I like it/lol

この上から厚物合板を敷いて防湿シートを折り返します。

Lay thick plywood over this and fold back the moisture-proof sheet.

垂木の高さも矢（関西）又はパッキン（北海道）を打ってしっかりレベルを合わせます。

Adjust the height of the rafters to the correct level by hitting arrows (Kansai) or gaskets (Hokkaido).

矢又はパッキンはこんな感じです。

The arrow or gasket looks like this.

新築だとまず使わないジャッキ。柱梁の交換やクリープした床の矯正等々・・リフォームには大活躍します。

A jack that is rarely used in new construction. It is very useful for renovations such as replacing columns and beams, straightening creeping floors, etc.

こちらがお好みの羽子板ボルト。頭が小さいのが好みです。

This is your favorite battledore bolt. I like the small head.

納まったところもピタッときれいです！

The place where it fits is also very clean!

5/26 発寒の家Ⅲ

 　築深の建物は概ね、手刻みで加工されていることが多い。それに経年変化が加わって例外なく現在の水準で見ると狂いを生じている。そこで棟梁は桁行方向と妻方向の狂いを測って屋起こしをやり直している。建物の角を基準にすると傾きが反対側に集中するから建物巾のほぼ中央の柱を立ち（垂直）の基準に見立てて左右の偏りが均一になるようにしている。

Deeply built buildings are often carved by hand. Added to this is the change over time, and without exception, the current standards are out of order. Therefore, the master carpenter measured the deviations in the girder direction and the gable direction and redid the building. If we use the corner of the building as a reference, the slope will be concentrated on the opposite side, so we used a column in the center of the width of the building as a standing (vertical) reference to make sure that the left and right deviations are even.

　話は変わるが・・昨日から現場の電気が突然使えなくなった・・元々の配線を養生しながら仮設電気として使っていたが、今の時代現場に電気が来ないでは始まらない。考えても理由が分からない・・そんな時に棟梁が「ネズミだな」と一言・・探してみるとかじられたＶＶＦ線を発見、早速被覆が傷んだところを取り除いて絶縁。無事復旧できた。棟梁の他に若い大工さんが一人ついているが、私も含めて毎日が学びの宝石だ・・棟梁はなんて凄い。新築以外、自分は全然ものを知らないんだろうと思う。想えば・・ネズミの糞が見つかった時点で電気の線の確認はしておくべきだった。知らずに誰かがブレーカーを触るかもしれないんだから。棟梁、今日もありがとうございます。

On a different note...the electricity at the site suddenly stopped working yesterday...We were using the original wiring as temporary electricity while curing it, but in this day and age, we can't start without electricity coming to the site. No matter how much I thought about it, I still couldn't figure out why... At that time, the master carpenter said, ``It's a rat.'' When I looked for it, I found a chewed-up VVF wire, and immediately removed the damaged part of the coating and insulated it. I was able to recover safely. In addition to the master carpenter, there is one young carpenter, and every day is a learning experience for everyone, including me...the master carpenter is amazing. I don't think I know anything about anything other than new construction. Now that I think about it...I should have checked the electrical lines the moment I found the rat droppings. Someone might trip the breaker without you knowing. Leader, thank you again for today.

建物巾のほぼ中央の柱が基準。この位置で最も各部の狂いが均一化する。

The pillar approximately in the center of the width of the building is the standard. At this position, the deviations of each part are most evened out.

42年ぶりの再屋起こしの全体像はこんな感じ

The whole picture of the reopening after 42 years is like this

ネズミに被覆がかじられた電気の線・・危ない

Electric wires whose insulation has been chewed by rats...dangerous

今日もこんな感じ・・現場は学びの宝石箱。面白くて興味深くて仕方がない。棟梁たちにとっては当たり前のことなんだろうけど・・・もっともっと勉強します！

It's like this today too... The field is a treasure box of learning. I can't help but find it interesting and interesting. I guess this is common sense for master carpenters, but I will study more and more!

5/25 発寒の家Ⅲ

 本日は小屋組みを取り去って主屋と下屋の梁が露わになった「発寒の家Ⅲ」です。小屋梁は主屋の屋根が３本、下屋が２本兜蟻で掛けてあります。この梁の天端を既存の桁天端＋105ｍｍに下げ揃えて、梁全てに補強を行います。その上で梁の腹に梁受け金物を打ち付けて□105の小梁を桁の上に載せ、上から厚物合板で水平な剛床ステージを作ろうと思います。断熱は外張りの屋根断熱とします。既存の小屋組みを解体した際に出た９～12尺の母屋材が多数ありますから捻じれの少ないものを選んで補強や小梁に再利用します。

Today's photo is ``Hasamu no Ie III,'' where the roof frame has been removed to expose the beams of the main house and lower house. Three hut beams are used for the main roof and two for the lower roof. The tops of these beams will be lowered to the existing girder tops + 105mm, and all beams will be reinforced. On top of that, I'm going to attach a beam support hardware to the belly of the beam, place a small beam of □105 on top of the girder, and make a horizontal rigid stage using thick plywood from above. Thermal insulation will be external roof insulation. There are many 9 to 12 shaku main roof materials that were obtained when the existing roof structure was dismantled, so we selected materials with minimal twisting and reused them for reinforcement and small beams.

主屋の小屋梁３本。梁Ｃは捻じれが大きくクリープが心配なので新しい梁に架け替えます。

Three beams of the main house. Beam C is highly twisted and there is a concern about creep, so we will replace it with a new beam.

こちらが交換予定の梁Ｃ・・かなり寝ています。

This is the beam C that is scheduled to be replaced... it's pretty sleepy.

こちらが下屋の小屋梁２本。母屋は12尺のものもあるので再利用します。

These are the two shed beams of the lower house. Some of the main buildings are 12 shaku, so they will be reused.

ブロックの煙突は解体します。

The block chimney will be demolished.

１階掃き出し窓の際柱。土台と共に交換です。

A pillar near the sweeping window on the first floor. It will be replaced along with the base.

久しぶりにバンアパなんていかがでしょう

How about having a bangpa party for the first time in a while?

5/23 発寒の家Ⅲ

 外部のバラ板も撤去し、骨組みが露わになった性能向上改修工事「発寒の家Ⅲ」の現場です。大きな構造の傷みは東側と南側にそれぞれ１か所。中でも南側は柱のみならず土台も一部交換が必要となります。これで傷みの状況がほぼ明らかになったので、今回の状況について建て主さまにご報告して修理の方法を話し合いたいと思います。こっから先は余談になりますが・・・築深の性能向上改修を行う場合は外装がきれいだからと油断せずに土台と胴差廻りくらいは最低限建物一周ぐるりと開口して確認すべきです。くれぐれも構造の傷みを放置したまま上からぺたっ！と断熱を貼るような・・てんぷら工事はNGです。

This is the site of the performance-enhancing renovation work ``Hatsu no Ie III,'' where the external loose boards were also removed and the framework was exposed. There is one large structural damage on the east side and one on the south side. Particularly on the south side, not only the pillars but also some of the foundations will need to be replaced. Now that the damage is mostly clear, I would like to report the situation to the owner and discuss how to repair it. I'll digress from this point on... When performing renovations to improve the performance of a deep building, you should not be careless just because the exterior is clean, but open at least all the way around the building to check the foundation and trunk area. is. I tried to clean it from above without leaving any damage to the structure! Tempura construction work such as putting on insulation is not allowed.

東側、玄関上の大梁の激しい痛みの様子。胴差、梁共い３割程度断面損失。柱頭もぼけて柱表面から深さ20ｍｍ程度は表面が手でめくれます。上下筋交いはきれいに接合部が消失していました。

On the east side, the girder above the entrance appears to be in severe pain. Cross-sectional loss of about 30% for both the trunk and beam. The capital of the column is also blurred and the surface can be turned over by hand to a depth of about 20mm from the column surface. The joints of the upper and lower braces had completely disappeared.

１階の掃き出し窓の上に二階の窓があり、その窓際で漏水。水は胴差と２階梁を傷ませていいます。１階掃き出し窓の際でも漏水が生じたようで両側の柱脚と土台が傷んでいます。

There was a window on the second floor above the sweeping window on the first floor, and water was leaking near that window. The water is damaging the girder and second floor beams. It appears that water leaked near the first-floor sweeping windows, and the pillar bases and foundations on both sides were damaged.

外部より見た掃き出し窓の左側の柱脚。土台が傷み柱がめり込んでいます。

The pedestal on the left side of the sweeping window seen from the outside. The foundation is damaged and the pillars are sunk in.

5/20 発寒の家Ⅲ

 5/20（土）の「発寒の家Ⅲ」。本日は外装の解体が終わったので・・構造体の傷みを確認しに行ってきました。その結果は・・まあ予想通りといいますか、今の工法は進化しているなあと感じた次第。さてなぜ外装を解体して構造材の傷みを確認することが大切なのかと言えば、こうした通気層（排水機能）も防湿層も持たない時代の建物は柱、梁の外気側に深刻な被害が集中し易いからです。平たく言えば壁の中で温度が最も下がり易い外装の裏側（柱の外気側）は結露に対しても、雨水等の漏水に対しても一番の弱点。注意点は・・室内からではまず分からない事。今日も一緒に点検にお付き合いください。

写真から得られる教訓は、たとえ軽微な部分断熱改修であっても、土台の下から上に45ｃｍ程度、中間胴差から上下に45ｃｍ程度はぐるりと開口して構造の傷みを点検し修理すべきということです。在来木造の傷みはこの部分に集中しやすいですから。

“Hatsu no Ie III” on Saturday, May 20th. Today I finished dismantling the exterior, so I went to check for damage to the structure. The results were...well, as expected, but I felt that the current construction methods were evolving. Now, the reason why it is important to dismantle the exterior and check for damage to the structural materials is that buildings from the era that did not have ventilation layers (drainage function) or moisture-proof layers suffered serious damage to the outside air side of columns and beams. Because it's easier to concentrate. To put it simply, the back side of the exterior (the outside air side of the pillar), where the temperature is most likely to drop among the walls, is the weakest point against condensation and leakage of rainwater. One thing to keep in mind is that you can't really tell from inside the room. Please join us for an inspection today.

The lesson learned from the photos is that even if the partial insulation renovation is minor, it is necessary to open the base approximately 45cm above the base and 45cm above and below the intermediate shell to inspect and repair damage to the structure. about it. Damage to traditional wooden structures tends to be concentrated in this area.

北側の柱（と）の（１）番。室内側からは何ら問題なく見えますが・・・

Number (1) of the pillar on the north side. It looks fine from the inside, but...

外から見ると要交換です。

From the outside, it looks like it needs to be replaced.

窓の左側の柱が1/3くらい腐ってなくなっています。モルタルの裏が結露したか、サッシの際からの漏水か、はたまたその両方か？シージングボードと柱の間に水が溜まり柱を外側から腐らせています。

About 1/3 of the pillar on the left side of the window is rotten and gone. Is there condensation behind the mortar, water leaking from the edge of the sash, or both? Water collects between the sheathing board and the pillar, causing the pillar to rot from the outside.

こちらは同じ場所を室内から見たところ。シージングボードこそ傷んでいますが柱は無傷のように見えます。

This is the same place seen from inside. Although the sheathing board is damaged, the pillars appear to be intact.